Feature: Central Thailand’s otherworldly charms
Central Thailand offers a travel experience far removed from that of the country’s southern shores. Here there are no beaches and no indulgent resorts packed with tourists, but instead, fantastic floating markets, pristine jungle, and a relaxed way of life. With street food served everywhere, towering lime stone hills rising in the distance, gorgeous jungle, cultured towns and multi-coloured tuk tuks (three wheeled taxis) plying for your trade, this is the place to be.
And the good news is that it’s a lot cheaper than the south! Rooms in out of the way towns can cost as little as £3 a night. Sure they’ll be basic, but not lacking in comfort. So following on with our region by region guide to South East Asia, this week we’ll be focusing on the temples, natural adventures and lifestyle in the provinces around Bangkok.
World War II history on the infamous river
Only two hours drive west out of the mad capital, Kanchanaburi is a fantastic town where isolated lime stone cliffs merge with huge Buddha statues on the banks of the River Kwai. Lose yourself in World War II history and walk over the reconstructed Bridge on the River Kwai, immortalised forever by Pierre Boulle’s novel and David Lean’s film. Stare down into the muddy waters and visit the obscure Jeath war museum next door, where vintage guns, cars, and war pictures line the sweaty rooms.
Rent a scooter and drive past jungle where monkeys play on the road, or take an organised tour to Hellfire Pass. This stunning white washed museum in the middle of the rural province is dedicated to the Asian and Allied prisoners of war who lived and died while trying to build the Burma Death Railway for the Japanese. Named because of the sea of flame lanterns that lit the night sky while the prisoners worked, this sobering experience allows you to walk the four kilometres of engorged rock where lizards and butterflies now live. Just be prepared to be quite shocked when the well-spoken British narrator’s voice starts talking from the museum’s speakers! Ride the railway back into town - rickety tracks through beautiful jungle.
Wild wanderings
Pong Phen guesthouse offer rooms from 150 baht (£3), and can organise tours taking in the bridge and pass. For an extra £7, choose to ride an elephant through jungle, followed by an extremely fun bamboo rafting trip along tranquil rivers. Check out the baby rabbits for sale in the night market, alongside street vendors serving barbequed freshwater fish. The Kanchanaburi strip is full of restaurants and bars, some playing music well into the night. Buddha Bar serves cool Chang beer on straw mats with a very chatty owner! The best Pad Thai (Thai noodles) is served on the street, and if your stomach can handle it, try the fiery Papaya salad.
Ancient world
Just north of Bangkok is the ancient Siamese capital Ayutthaya. Tourist minibuses travel here from all over the central regions, but the most atmospheric way is to ride the 3rd class train for 15 baht (30p!). Chat to the locals before arriving in the old station, where hordes of street vendors sell fruit, meat, and noodles all day. While renting a tuk tuk to explore the ancient town is fun, it’s worth hiring a cheap bicycle to explore at your own leisure. Just watch out for the huge Asian elephants walking through the complex!
The conical, 14th century temples are surrounded by landscaped gardens and beautiful moats, where fishermen try their luck in the teeming waters. Watch the old women worshipping at the 60 foot high Buddha, and feed the thousands of catfish climbing over each other in the old capital’s huge moat. Make sure you organise an early morning boat trip where weedy fronds wave in the morning chop, and book a night time taxi ride to see the huge reclining Buddha lit up in all its glory. All the guesthouses are on Nareasuan Road, and the best has to be Tony’s Place - with its ancient art and rocking social scene.
Monkey Madness
For a unique Thai experience away from the tourist trail, Lopburi is a fantastic place. Here ancient Khmer (Cambodian) and Hindu ruins date back over 1000 years. So expect crumbling temples shooting into the sky forgotten by time, with wild foliage growing around. But the most attractive aspect of this fantastic place has to be the troupe of Macaques which are....everywhere! Try and hide your hat or bag because they will try and grab it, but chuckle at them sipping the dregs out of soft drink cans!
Although only two hours from Bangkok, few visitors travel here, thus giving a true picture of provincial Thai life not dressed up for the cameras. Expect noisy scooters, street vendors plying their trade, and modern day high rises amid the ancient wonders. Noom Guesthouse is a funky collection of 18 bamboo bungalows only three minutes away from the historical ruins. Rooms start at £3 a night, while the onsite restaurant serves western and Thai cuisine. The guesthouse also rents out scooters and offers caving, trekking, and rock climbing trips.
With historic ruins, World War II nostalgia, fantastic food, and a very friendly population, central Thailand is a perfect introduction to this incredible country. Join us next week as we venture further up to the jungle lands and hippy towns of the north.
