Feature: Thai adventures in the megacity Bangkok
Imagine mist shrouded limestone peaks, turquoise waters, crumbling colonial towns, 50ft tall religious statues, the smell of frying in the morning, and heaving backpacker parties on paradise islands and jungle highlands. Imagine this and you have pictured south-east Asia perfectly. This tropical region jutting out into the ocean at the end of the Asian continent is steeped in history and mysticism. Now one of the most popular backpacking destinations in the world, the countries of Thailand, Laos, Vietnam, Cambodia, Malaysia, Singapore, and Indonesia have still retained much of their unique identities. Live for under £15 a day, be humbled by the grace and humility of the local population, and meet new friends (locals and travellers alike) among some of the most beautiful settings on earth.
Words cannot do the region justice: you need to be there! Don’t believe the hype, the area isn’t as touristy as people believe. And it’s not just beaches and parties! So join us on our new region by region guide to this fascinating area where you can live for a week for the price of a tank of petrol back home. This week: Bangkok!
The breathing city
Where to begin in the Thai capital that never sleeps? It’s neon, crazy, frenetic, a concrete jungle, populated to bursting point, and ridiculously friendly. Street vendors barbeque fish and chicken at all hours of the day, children angle in the grey rivers, and the sound of honking horns fills the jammed streets until daybreak. First time visitors beware, the city comes as a culture shock. But take your time and you’ll hear the rhythm created by incense-burning Buddhist traditions, a conservative work ethic, communal family life, and even a peaceful rural escape in the city’s backwaters!
The backpacker ghetto
Known as the backpacker hub for all of south-east Asia, Khaosan Road is a land of bars, restaurants, and budget lodgings east of the city centre. Lovingly nicknamed a backpacker ghetto, street vendors throw glittering toys into the air, reggae bars line the side streets, and locals live and breathe in crumbling teak houses. The road and its surrounding area brim with guesthouses, with prices starting from 180 baht (under £4) for a room. Food sellers serve pad Thai (noodles), sumptuous fruit shakes, and tiny grilled meat kebabs from 10 baht. If you’re really adventurous, get a bag of deep fried insects – caterpillar larvae, spiders, crickets, and water beetles. Not only full of protein, they actually taste like sweet crisps! Centre Point Plaza is a comfy, clean guesthouse, but literally all you need to do to find accommodation is turn up along the strip and start enquiring. Listen to Thai musicians emulating folk, reggae and rock stars in the numerous bars and clubs (like Gazebo), shop for fashionable vests or trinkets, or get your hair dreadlocked by a Thai master!
The ancient and the modern
No vehicles can enter the strip at night, but in the day try to ignore the tuk-tuk and taxi drivers who aggressively pester you for a ride: they charge far too much. Instead walk a few minutes outside and bargain with the roving drivers, but make sure you agree on a price before getting in! A tuk-tuk is a three wheeled auto-rickshaw named for its engine sound, and boy do they go fast! Head to Siam Square and shop till you drop, ride the skytrain high over the noisy city, and admire the Grand Palace in all its glory. Or just walk for hours through the streets where teak houses stand next to concrete high-rises.
Riverside life
For an otherworldly experience, head to the Chao Phraya River and book a canal boat tour. Numerous travel agents line the banks so there is no need to book. In five minutes your long tail boat would have left the wide choppy river and entered a world of stilted wooden houses in the canals. Monitor lizards swim past huge shoals of topping catfish, and children play in the oily water gleefully while shouting hello in broken English. You’ll visit orchid farms and temples, where for 10 baht you can feed bread to a sea of catfish jumping over each other like panicking insects. Or instead you can re-release any number of terrapins, eels, catfish, or snakeheads (a long slender type of fish) back into the river. Both activities are meant to bring good luck.
A foodies dream
Everyone loves Thai food. A social institution in the mega-city, head to Chinatown where hundreds of open air food stalls sit side by side next to honking motorbikes and bright neon signs. Papaya salad is a must: shredded papaya mixed with tomato, cashew nuts, fish sauce, lime juice, and numerous chilli peppers. Be warned, this dish is very very hot! Pad see ew is a soft wide-noodle dish with fried chicken and greens, while tod man pla are delicious deep fried fishcakes. Thai food is hugely varied, and Chinatown is a great place to try it due to the small portions, social nature of dining, and unique mixtures of salty, sweet, and spicy dishes! Best thing to do....be adventurous.
Bangkok really has to be one of the most fascinating destinations on earth. You could easily spend a week here soaking up its frenetic culture. And strangely, as soon as you leave, you want to be right back there!
